02 October

Born on this day

1929 Cesare Maestri, Italian climber, who became famous for climbing Cerro Torre (3128 m) in 1970 with a gas compressor and rock drill and was widely criticised for this method. Already in 1959 he claimed to have climbed the mountain, but it was and is reasonably very disputed. Because of his many earlier new routes of the hardest difficulty in the Dolomites, he was nicknamed the "Spider of the Dolomites". He died in 2021, aged 91.
1949 Antxon Ibarguren, Spanish Basque climber, who ascended Gasherbrum II in 1989, where he died on descent, aged 39.
1951 Bohumil Kadlčík, Czech climber, who ascended Nanda Devi in 1981.
1956 Tetsuya Takahashi, Japanese climber, who ascended Shisha Pangma Central-Peak in 1991.
1957 Dean Christianson, American climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2014.
1958 Michael Girard, American climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2009.
1959 Sakae Uchiyama (former Iwazaki), Japanese climber, who ascended Gasherbrum II in 1997.
1959 Monica Kalozdi, American lady climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2004 and Everest in 2005. She also finished the Kosciuszko-version of the Seven Summits in 2006.
1959 David (Dave) Gott, British climber, who ascended Everest in 2011.
1961 Mario Dibona, Italian climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 1998, Gasherbrum II in 2000, Everest in 2002 and Broad Peak Foresummit and K2 in 2004.
1962 Armin Müller, German climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2005.
1962 David Jon Mauro, American climber, who ascended Everest in 2013.
1963 Philipp Schlatter, Swiss climber, who ascended Everest in 2008. He also finished the Carstensz-version of the Seven Summits in 2011.
1964 Adriano Dal Cin, Italian climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2002, Everest in 2004 and Broad Peak in 2007.
1967 Maria Herlinde Gisela Hoffmann, German lady climber, who ascended Everest in 2011, where she also finished the Carstensz-version of the Seven Summits. During the first four of them she was male. He (then Herbert Maria) also climbed Gasherbrum II in 2006.
1967 Jenny Paulina Aulestia, Ecuadorian lady climber, who ascended Everest in 2013.
1968 Nikolaos Magitsis, Greek climber, who ascended Everest in 2004. He also finished the Carstensz-version of the Seven Summits in 2008.
1969 Bruno Magnus Viberg, Swedish climber, who ascended Manaslu RP in 2021 and Everest in 2024.
1970 Alessandro Colleoni, Italian climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2006.
1970 Rehan (Ray) Dost, Canadian climber, who ascended Everest in 2012.
1971 Tarmo Riga, Estonian climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 1998 and Broad Peak Foresummit in 2001.
1971 Claudia Cristina Elizabeth Bento, Brazilian lady climber, who ascended Manaslu in 2018.
1975 Dawa Tsering, Indian climber, who ascended Lhotse in 2012.
1976 Romil Barthwal, Indian climber, who ascended Everest in 2019.
1978 Bishnu Tamang, Indian climber, who ascended Everest in 2019.
1978 James Matthew (Matt) Dawson, American climber, who ascended Everest in 2021.
1979 Mingma Nuru III, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest twice (2001 and 2004).
1980 Marcos Costa, Brazilian climber, who ascended Gasherbrum II in 2017.
1981 Adam Stephen Booth, British climber, who ascended Everest twice (2013 and 2018), Lhotse in 2018 and Kangchenjunga and Makalu in 2022.
1983 Mark Quinn, Irish climber, who ascended Everest in 2011.
1984 Marta Misztal, Polish lady climber, who ascended Everest in 2022.
1987 Nima Dorje VII, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest twelve times (2012, 2013, 2014, 2016, 2017/twice, 2018/twice, 2019, 2022, 2023 and 2024), Broad Peak twice (2018 and 2019), Manaslu RP in 2021, K2 in 2022 and Cho Oyu in 2024.
1990 Phurba VI, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest twice (2019 and 2021) and Makalu in 2023, K2 twice (2023 and 2024) and Manaslu M twice (2023 and 2024).
1991 Christine Vogondy Munzinger, Swiss lady climber, who ascended Manaslu M in 2022, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and K2 in 2023 and Everest and Lhotse in 2024.
1998 Jayanta Nath, Indian climber, who ascended Kangchenjunga in 2023.

First ascents on this day

1936 One of the Simvo NE-Peaks (6587 m and 6540 m) by a German party. In June 1979 it was reported that an Indian party climbed one of the higher Simvo-Peaks (6671 and 6811 m), but no details were given. Also on September 26th, 1984 another Indian expedition was reported to have climbed one of them (see 26th September). Anyway, for sure the technical difficult Main-Peak (6812 m) still remains unclimbed.
1973 Vasuki Parvat I (6792 m) by an Indian party.
1975 Saf Minal (6911 m) by a Japanese party.
2002 Sepu Kangri (6980 m) by an American party.
2007 P. 6543 (Geladaindong) by a Japanese party.

Gone on this day

1959 Claude Kogan, French lady climber, Claudine van der Stratten, Belgian lady climber, and Nepalese Sherpa climbers Ang Norbu and Chhowang died in an avalanche on Cho Oyu.
1991 Manuel (Manu) Badiola, Spanish Basque climber, who ascended Lhotse Shar in 1990 and Makalu, where he died on descent, aged 37.
1992 Yuji Futamata, Japanese climber, who ascended Makalu in 1991, died in an avalanche on Huang Guan Shan (aka "Crown", 7295 m), aged 37.
1992 Sylwia Dmowska, Polish lady climber, died by a fall on Manaslu.
2000 Chuldim Gyalzen, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in spring 2000, died on Dhaulagiri I, aged 36.
2003 Ayumi Nozawai, Japanese climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1993, Tirich Mir in 1995 and Gasherbrum I in 2002, died in an avalanche during an attempt to climb Himjung (7092 m) for the first time, aged 39.